There it is. The highest mountain on the planet. At its peak: eight thousand eight hundred forty-eight meters high; twenty-nine thousand twenty-nine feet. If you’re like me, climbing all the way up there is a wild idea (not to mention wildly expensive!), BUT it doesn’t take much cash nor preparation to trek to this storied mountain’s base. I know because I did it with very little cash and even less preparation. Here is everything you need to know to trek to Everest Base Camp without a guide or porter. Continue reading
One night, during our trek to Everest Base Camp, we stayed in a guesthouse which had security bars on the windows and doors. Kio was convinced the bars were a precaution against the Yetis that were undoubtedly living undetected in the mountains. He drew this picture and told me the story of the Dyatlov Expedition, and after hearing that, I made him walk me down the dark hallway to the bathroom.
In the morning, we showed the owners of the hostel this drawing and asked about the bars on the windows. They didn’t believe in Yetis and said the bars were there to keep out robbers. Kio didn’t believe them.
The mystery of the Yeti remains.
I spent most of my time in Nepal in guesthouses in the Himalayas as my partner and I made our way to Everest Base Camp. But when we returned to Kathmandu past midnight on a busy holiday weekend after an 18-hour bus ride, this place was a godsend: Continue reading
We dragged ourselves out of bed this morning to more frozen windows and pipes. Nothing had changed since we had seen Everest. We were still cold, hungry and cash poor. We had to make it to Namche for an ATM if we were to eat tonight. Continue reading
Kio takes the baby goat in his lap as it kicks and screams in protest.
We keep saying that we’re going to start early.
Tomorrow, we wake up at six, we say.
But we just wake up later and later, and don’t bother with alarms. This morning we woke just before nine and started walking at ten.
It was all downhill for the first three hours, and then I couldn’t decide whether I hated more to walk uphill or down. I hurt my knee two days ago when I misstepped on the way down a steep hill, and now there’s a sharp pain that comes and goes. I wrapped Kio’s bandage around it today, which seemed to help a little. Continue reading
Seven walking hours. It was hard, but so good. Waterfalls and rushing rivers, and green everywhere. I didn’t think I’d make it up the last hill, though. It was a steady climb up pretty much all day.